Sunday, June 30, 2013

2013-06-17 The Winding Road to Skye

June 17, 2013 - Monday


The next morning, after a hearty breakfast, we set out for Poolewe.  We thought about going to Ullapool but decided against it.  The scenery was quite amazing on the drive to Poolewe. We drove beside Black Water for quite a while. At times, it seemed like we were driving past paintings.  We passed Glascarnoch Dam, which is located near the A835 road between Inverness and Ullapool.  Loch Glascarnoch is a man-made reservoir, created in the 1950s when the dam was built.  Water from Loch Vaich and Loch Droma is taken to Loch Glascarnoch from where a 5 mile tunnel transports the water to Mossford power station.  The dam is 28m or 92 feet high and 510 m or 1,673 feet in length.

We stopped to walk the Corrieshalloch Gorge from the Kissing Gates to the suspension bridge overlooking the Falls of Measach and then over to the viewing platform.  It was a nice little walk and from there, we drove to Dundonnell and then along Little Loch Broom, a sea loch which is separated from Loch Broom by a peninsula occupied by Scoraig, a settlement known for its remoteness, somewhat ‘alternative’ atmosphere, organic food production and pioneering use of wind power.  Along the way, we stopped to admire Little Gruinard Beach, which has fragile sand dunes where were being restored.  The sheltered sandy bays and headlands are good places for sea watching.  Sightings at the beach included common and white-beaked dolphins, minke whale, harbour porpoise and occasionally basking shark and killer whale.  While most of the listed wildlife could be seen all year or between May and October, we, sadly, did not see any.


We got into Poolewe around lunch time.  We stopped at Inverewe Gardens, famous for its exotic and magical garden, bought our tickets for the garden and then had a light lunch at the cafĂ©.  There was a warning about it been the midge season, and forewarned, we went back to our parked car and sprayed ourselves with bug repellent before setting out for our walk in the garden.  The bug spray worked fairly well for most part.  The garden is situated it the north of Scotland, in a rocky, windswept headland on the shores of Loch Ewe. Plants from all over the world thrive there.  There were plants native to South Africa growing there.  We saw palm trees and all manner of tropic plants.  The rhododendrons and azaleas were in bloom and they were magnificent.  The view of the coast was beautiful.  We enjoyed the garden and our walk even though it got a bit warm and the bugs were swarming over our heads.  Inverewe Garden Lodge, the final home of the founder of Inverewe Garden, is available for holiday let (1 double and 2 twin bedded rooms, satellite TV, wood burning stove and other amenities) and comes with 24 hour access to the garden.  That might be a fun place to stay in if we come back to the area.  The inverewe Estate covers about 2,000 acres of moorland, coastline and woodland in addition to the 54 acre garden. It is home to otters, pine martens, red and roe deer and a resident seal colony.  One could spend days in Inverewe, walking its various trails and trying to spot wildlife from the Wildlife Hide.  We, unfortunately, only had a couple of hours to spend in the garden.

Lunch; Inverewe garden; http://www.visitscotland.com/info/see-do/inverewe-garden-and-estate-p255481

From Poolewe, we drove to Gairloch.  The most interesting part of getting there was the scenery as we drove along the road, which sometimes became single tracked.  We did not encounter a lot of traffic, but we could imagine that the road must be a zoo in high season.  Drivers were polite and pulled into passing spots depending on who was closer to one.  There was a lot of lights being flicked and hands waved in acknowledgement when passing by each car.  We passed the Bad Na Sgalaig Dam. 

Beinn Eighe, Britain’s first National Nature Reserve, is a complex mountain massif located between Loch Maree and Glen Torridon.  The upper reaches are white quartzite and the flanks are scree-covered.  Two of the Beinn Eighe’s summits are classified as Munros (a Scottish mountain with a height of more than 914.4m or 3,000 feet).  Mountains or hills of at least 150m or 492 ft, regardless of absolute height or other merit, are called Marilyns.  The name was coined as punning contrast to the designation of Munro (ala Marilyn Munroe).  There are 2,009 Marilyns identified in the UK, Ireland and Isle of Man. With 1,215 of them in Scotland, it is no wonder that we seemed to be surrounded by Marilyns during our drive in Scotland.  The northern side side of Beinn Eighe looks out across a rough triangular wilderness of rock, peat and heather that stretches almost to the south west shore of Loch Maree.

The road to Kinlochewe was most quite scenic, with views of the Beinn Eighe Marilyns.

The road from Kinlochewe to Torridon was mostly single track and meandered along hillsides. On the road between Kinlochewe and Torridon, Ben Eighe appears to be a steep and imposing rock wall that takes off where Liathach leaves off, with few features breaking up the southern face.  The easiest access to the mountain is from the mountain trail from the Beinn Eighe Nature Reserve visitor centre on the A832 about 3 miles north west of Kinlochewe.

Along our spectacular drive to Torridon, we saw a heron and a herd of deer.

 We decided to skip Plockton as it was getting late and it would mean doubling back on the road..  From Torridon, we headed straight for Eilean Donan, one of the most photographed castles in Scotland.  Apparently, the castle was best admired from afar so we had no plans to visit it.  We went into the parking lot of the Dornie town hall and took a bunch of photos of the castle from there.  It is quite dramatic.  After that, we drove over to the parking lot of the visitors’ centre for the castle to see the castle from another angle. I would say that the castle looked great from all angles.

From Eilean Donan, we drove to the Isle of Skye.  There were mountains everywhere.  Where they were no mountains, we could see the sea.  Skye has been linked to the mainland by the controversial Skye Bridge since October 1995.  Some claim that Skye was no longer an island because of the permanent link to the mainland. The bridge passes over Eilean Ban (White Island), which is a six acre island with a wealth of heritage managed by the Eilean Ban Trust.  We drove from the bridge on the A87, which followed the coast and and passed Broadford, Sconser (with its ferry port for the Isle of Raasay) and Sligachan befoe going inland for the drive to Portree. We drove past Portree on the road to our b&b, Cruinn Beinn in Kensalare.

We decided to go into Portree for dinner.  Portree, the largest town on Skye, has a harbour fringed by cliffs and a pier designed by Thomas Telford.  There are a few colourful houses interspersed amongst whitewashed buildings.  The harbour continues to be used by fishing and pleasure which can be seen bobbing up and down in the water. Our hostess, Marina, had recommended a couple of restaurants in town and we went to check them out after driving into Portree.  Those restaurants were fully booked and unable to accommodate us so we walked around to find another place.  The many places that we went in to were also fully booked and we thought we might be reduced to eating greasy fish and chips from a place by the harbour.  For a large tourist centre, the choices for dining were quite limited.

We were lucky enough to get 2 separate tables in a pub that we found.  After placing our order, the diners at the table next to Petros and Florine left and Irene and I were able to move and we ended up having dinner together.  We enjoyed our meals of scallops, mussels, strawberry Eton mess and fruit cake. 

We drove back to our b&b and went for a walk in the neighbourhood.  From the b&b, we could look across Loch Snizort Beag to the Waternish peninsula.  Kensalare is on the Trotternish peninsula.  We saw a red Highland, which looks a bit like a hippy because of the long wavy coats, rabbits and sheep.  A group of Highlands is known as a fold. Highland are a hardy breed with their hair providing protection during cold winters and their skill in looking for food allowing them to survive in steep mountain area.  They both graze and browse and eat plants that other cattle avoid.  Fortunately, the midges stayed away from us – must be the foreign repellent that we were using. We walked to the end of the road before turning back.  We met a jogger and his dog on the way back and spent some time showering attention on the dog.  I guess it was compensating for missing our own dogs.

Where we stayed:  Cruinn Bheinn, 4 Eyre, Kensaleyre, Portree, Isle of Skye, IV51 9XB; 44 01470 532459; Peter & Marina

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